I knew this new crystal chandelier was precious the minute I walked into the dining room …
Because it was the first thing the homeowners pointed out. Even before showing me the beautiful wallpaper I would be hanging there.
The textured walls needed to be smoothed , and that meant there would be lots of dust from sanding.
Drywall dust is fine and sifts everywhere. I looked at those shiny crystals and knew that there would be no way to clean them to remove dust . So, to keep dust off, I covered the light fixture with painter’s plastic. Only thing is, the light bulbs get hot and would melt the plastic. Which sticks and you can never get it off. Yes, I could have turned off the lights. But I didn’t want to work in a dark room. So above, you can see I took a scissors and cut slits in the plastic to allow the light bulbs to slip outside. This way, the glass fixture was protected, nothing hot touched the plastic, and I had plenty of light to work.
Focal wall before. With many patterns, the finished room looks better if the dominant features of the pattern can be centered . You may not consciously notice this, but the overall room just feels more cohesive and balanced . Here I’ve located the horizontal center of the wall , and placed the skinny tree running vertically down that line . Same thing on this section of wall, but I used the alternate tree figure, which is wider and filled the space better.
It’s kind of tricky finding the center of a design like this, because it’s not symmetrical and elements of it move to left and right , and some are wider than others. So it helps to be able to pull up a room-scale image on-line , or to lay a couple of rolls out next to each other on the floor and look at the pattern from a distance.
It was cool that this dining room had lots of individual spaces , separated by windows and doors .
And extra cool that these features reached up almost all the way to the ceiling. AND that the design was loose and flowing . That’s what allowed me to fiddle with the pattern and center the trees on each individual section of wall . Normally a pattern would have to match all the way around the room. But here you would never notice if a tree branch didn’t perfectly match the next tree branch way up 9′ high over the window that was only 2″ high .
On those short areas over the windows and doors, I overlapped the left and right strips a small amount, and then cut along one of the branches to disguise the mis-matched pattern.
Since there were two tree figures to the design , I varied what I placed in the center of each wall, to prevent every visual vignette from being the same.
It was fun plotting all this out and executing the layout . I love when my work environment is nice and quiet and I have the space and time to play around like this .
The pattern is called Luminous Branches and is by York . It’s a material made by a good brand .
The homeowners had this elegant wainscoting added to the bottom of their dining room when the house was built . But for seven years, the room was bland and boring . The new crystal chandelier adds glamor , but the room is still lacking .
Wallpaper to the rescue! Now there’s soft color and soft pattern . And a little gold shimmer !
I’m encouraging the homeowners to paint that band of wall under the tray ceiling a very soft aqua color, to meld with the misty feel of the wallpaper .
It’s a soft aqua color , but enough to stand out against the woodwork . Now you see the beautiful moldings and trim work . South wall beforeSouth wall doneI positioned the tree pattern to fall down the mid-point of this space between the two windows . This shot with the chandelier dimmer turned down allows you to see the pattern more fully.
This wallpaper pattern is called Luminous Branches and is by York , one of my favorite brands , in their Designer Series line. The material has a slight raised / embossed / textured effect. It’s a non-woven product, so is strong , durable , stain-resistant , and designed to strip off the wall easily and in one piece and with no damage to the wall when you redecorate later. Non-wovens can be hung by the paste the wall method , but I generally prefer to paste the paper . NW requires no booking / soaking time , so they install a little faster , with no worries about shrinking or gaps at the seams . In fact, the seams are near-invisible . The home is in the Braes Heights area of Houston
Dining room focal wall before. Same wall done, with dominant tree figure positioned down center of the wall. How was this achieved? Laying the paper out on my work table, to see the pattern. Determine this tree is more vertical and visible than the more spreading trees on either side.
It helps to access the pattern on-line, to see a full-scale , room-set photo. And also to roll the paper out on the floor.
Finding the center point of this tree.
The center of the pattern is 20 1/8″ from the left edge of the paper . Since the wallpaper is 27″ wide, this places the center at 6 7/8″ from the right edge of the strip. Hold on to that / those figures!
It helps to access the pattern on-line, to see a full-scale room-set photo. And also to roll the paper out on the floor.
Now we’re looking at the wall, and the calculations I’ve drawn on it.
At the left, I’ve marked the mid-point of the wall. The mid-point is 27″ from either side. Since the center of the tree is 6 7/8″ from the right side of the wallpaper, to the right I have marked 6 7/8″ over, which is where the right edge of the wallpaper should be placed. This will land the center of the tree motif at the center point of the wall. This also works out to 20 1/8″ from the left edge of the subsequent wallpaper strip.
6 7/8″ from the right edge of the strip on the left works out to 20 1/8″ from the left edge of the strip to be placed on the right.
Confused yet? We paperhanger s aren’t just slapping paper on the wall . There is a lot of math and plotting and engineering that goes into all this.
At least the way I do it. You can call me the Queen of Overthinking . 🙂
Trimming right-hand strip to 20 1/8″ wide.
Instead of placing the left-hand strip along a plumb line at the 20 1/8″ point on the wall, and then placing the next strip to the right of it, and having to trim against that window molding, I found it simpler to pre-trim the right-hand strip to 20 1/8 ” wide, and then I could simply butt this strip up against the window molding, eliminating the need to wipe paste off the molding, and also keeping the pattern straight along the molding. But there is also that 2″ high bit of space over the window. That’s why I’ve left that little tab of wallpaper you see at the upper right of this photo.
Here is that first strip in place. Maybe now if finally all makes sense. When I put that second strip next to it, the mid-point of that tree is going to be 6 7/8″ from the edge, and will fall right at the mid-point of the wall. Remember, that was at 27″ from both the right and the left window moldings. And here we are! Measured from the right.Measured from the left. Spot on!All that math and calculating for one 54″ wide x 5′ high wall!
But look at how nice it looks with that tree down the center of the wall. Especially with the brand new chandelier hung in the middle of the room. This will be the focal point of the room, as people walk into the home’s entry .
The pattern is called Luminous Branches , and is by York.
Note that this calculating and plotting could be achieved because this product is a non-woven / paste the wall material. This stuff does not expand when wet with paste . That means that you can take measurements and trim your wallpaper , without fear of it stretching beyond where you plotted for it to land on the wall.
My helper for today. This has got to be the biggest Black Lab I’ve ever seen – easily way over 100 lbs.For size comparison, that’s my foot, bottom center. And a 1-gallon bucket by his head.
And, yes – he eats sponges , paper towels , dropcloths , phone totes , and shoes .
Hall bathroom before . The walls had this super-heavy ” Tuscan ” texture that I spend a day and a half smoothing out . Finished Looks so good with the orange painted cabinetry . Also note the really fun tile on the shower to the left. Colorful and lively ! I had ’60’s & ’70’s music on all day while installing , to compliment the mood .
And poppies – well, ya know … that whole psychedelic thing from back then …
Swedish manufacturer . Lina II , Design midbec , tapeter
This is a pretty nice non-woven material, water and stain-resistant , fairly easy to install , can paste the wall or paste the paper , seams are near invisible . It will be easy to strip off the wall when you redecorate . Affordable price .
Sold by the on-line company wallpaperfromthe70s.com , based out of Germany . Really nice folks. Here’s a picture of the brand new shower , to show the whole room is colorful and retro vibe .
Previous installer broke just about all the rules, but the paper has held up wonderfully for nearly 25 years.
I’m going to hang new wallpaper in this hall bathroom, and first must remove the existing paper. But – surprise! When I removed the outlet cover, I discovered that the previous guy hung this floral paper on top of the original paper. Ouch!
Here’s a better view. You can clearly see that other paper underneath there.
An interesting side note … the original paper looks a whole lot like the pattern I had in my powder room for many years. I loved it.
Anyway, both these papers are solid vinyl material, which is, essentially, plastic , and has a slick surface. Wallpaper paste won’t adhere well to this shiny surface. Even without taking the time to strip off the original paper, a primer should have been applied over that vinyl. Yet, as you see, this paper has hung on well for two decades.
He used regular paste, too – not something formulated to stick to a slick surface (which we call VOV or vinyl over vinyl ). Again – amazing that it stuck. And very glad that he didn’t use VOV – be cause that stuff is near impossible to get off!
Another problem with hanging wallpaper over old paper is that the seams of the bottom paper will show through the new paper.
1990’s paperhanger didn’t prime the wall , either.
To remove this wallpaper, I stripped off the top vinyl layer of both layers of wallpaper. That left the paper backing of the original wallpaper still adhered to the wall. Here I’ve soaked that backing with water , using a sponge and bucket of warm water, applied over and over again, until it soaked in and reactivated the paste. 30 year old paste!
Here I am gently scraping it off the drywall . As you can see, no primer was applied to the drywall. Gee, folks! A primer formulated for use under wallpaper should always be applied, to any surface, before hanging new paper. I like Roman Pro 977 Ultra Prime . Besides providing an appropriate surface for the wallpaper paste to bite into , easing installation by allowing slip , and withstanding the tension caused when wallpaper paste dries and the paper shrinks and tugs at the wall (which could cause seams to come loose ), a primer will seal the drywall and ease removal of the wallpaper when you redecorate down the road.
Without a primer, it’s common for wallpapers to “bond” to uncoated drywall , which makes removal nearly impossible. Like I said, I got really lucky with this one, because the original paper did come off relatively easily and with no damage to the wall surface .
Just above my finger, you can see a bit of a green line. A previous installer must have used ink to mark his plumb line . Problem with this is, as you can see, ink will work its way through many substances, including wallpaper , and leave a stain on the surface. In this case, I removed the old wallpaper and then skim-floated the wall to smooth it. As you can see, the ink, which is decades old (original wallpaper dates to the early ‘90’s ) is still active and has bled through the smoothing compound / joint compound . If I were to prime and then hang wallpaper over this, it would work its way through both my primer and the homeowner’s new wallpaper. So I’m sealing it off. Above the green line you can see a strip of stain blocker brushed (actually daubed on with my finger) over the stain. I like to use KILZ Original oil-based stain blocker. BIN shellac-based is another good product. Don’t believe the claims on cans of water-based alternatives – nothing works as well to block stains as KILZ or BIN. The fumes can be strong, and KILZ can make you high, so ventilate the room and/or wear a respirator when you apply this stuff. Other substances / stains that can bleed through paint and wallpaper are tobacco , water , rust , marker , crayon , blood , oil , grease , food , hand prints , cosmetics , hair products , and so forth.
An angled trim brush like this helps apply my wallpaper primer in tight areas the roller won’t reach , such as along crown molding and baseboards , and in corners. This is called cutting in . These brushes with the stubby handles are kinda new, and I’m liking them a lot.
Original wallcovering was a dark , rustic , textured (and outdated) torn and overlapped paper . Smoothed , prepped , primed , and ready for wallpaper . Done! Bright , fresh , and with visual movement from the swirly leaf pattern .Opposite side of vanity / countertop . Mirror shot showing wall behind the vanity / sink . Wall opposite the vanity / mirror . The pattern is called Priano .
The color is called Dusty Pink – it’s a very livable pink. This is very popular pattern , and I’ve hung it a bunch of times, in every colorway . It’s one of my favorites, too. I love the soft swirling foliage , and the simple two-color scheme . This makes it a very easy pattern to live with , whether it be one accent wall or a whole room . In fact, the pattern is so soft and un-intrusive that it makes a wonderful choice for papering all the walls in even a large room such as a bedroom or dining room (Search here to see the dining room I did in the soft blue version .)
Made by Serena & Lily
I like the quality of just about everything from this company. This is a paper wallpaper , and goes up nicely . Like most traditional wallpapers , this is installed by pasting the paper . The home is in the Champions Forest area of northwest Houston . installer paperhanger
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